Make sure you have saw horses or something similar to work on. First, take two 2x4x8's and sandwich a 5/8x2x8 inbetween. Keep all three pieces flush to one side and close together. Fasten both sides with 2 and a half inch screws. I like to pre-drill the holes first as it makes things a lot easier.
Next, cut your blade. Mine is about 15" wide and you can use the entire length of the board if you want. Start from the lower corner and make a cut at an angle to about halfway up on the other side. Take a C clamp and clamp it to the top. You want to find the center of gravity to make the edges plumb. Mark your hole where the clamp is. This will look off center. That's OK, its supposed to.
Hang up your blade (watch your toes!) and check it with a plumb line. THIS IS IMPORTANT! Otherwise, it will make for a dissappointing execution when your blade gets stuck.
Take the new blade and slide it into the grooves and make certain there aren't any tight spots. Then move the blade to the top. Cut a piece of 2" furring strip and square it across the top. This provides a place to attach a pulley. Double-check that your blade moves freely and screw the top in place.
Then cut a 1/2"x 6" piece of wood. Mark 2" in on the bottom of both sides and cut on an angle to the top corner. Lay and square the board across the top face of the guillotine - screw in place. (see top photo.)
Now, slide the blade to the bottom end. You will need to cut two matching pieces of 1/2" plywood to fit between the side rails. Don't forget to cut out the area that the neck will lay in. While the blade is in the groove, lay a 1/4" spacer between the blade and the plywood you just cut and fit it into place. This will allow enough space for the blade to glide down the guillotine freely.
{ see figure at left.
Screw into place and remove the spacer board. You can use some trim molding to hide any gaps. Cut 2 peices of 2" furring strip for both sides of the bottom half of the guillotine (front & back) to keep it square. Now, flip the whole thinkg over and repeat on the backside. After that, use a 2x4x8 cut in half for leg stands. I used 2 pieces of 1" for leg supports. To make the lever, slide the blade to the top. Hang a 4" pulley from a hook in the top center. (You can find these at Home Depot in the hardware section along with the rope.) Leave enough room for the pulley plus 4" between the top of the blade and frame. When you have the blade where you want it, find the upper angle of the cutting edge. This will be the center mark of the hole you are going to make in the side of the blade track.Length of hole is about 4-1/2". Use a 1/2" drill bit to bore a hole on bith sides of the 4-1/2" marks. Center piece should push out. Use a jigsaw and square up both sides. Cut a 7"x1-1/2" piece of woodand bevel on both sides. Cut a small 1" piece of scrap wood. Slide the 7" piece into the hole. Drill a 1/4" hole through the outside track into the center of the 1-1/2" hole on the center mark approx. 1/2" from the outer track edge.Drill into the 7" piece while on a 90* angleto the track inside the 4-1/2" hole. Make sure the blade just rests on the beveled edgeof the 7" piece. Use a 3" deck screw through the center hole down through the 7" handle. Lift up on the handle to allow the blade to fall and adjust as needed. |
